Pid d Escreins

This is a great walk starting in the splendour of the hidden valley of the Escreins. It is a deep and green valley, lined on either side by dramatic and colourful limestone cliffs and crested by tormented and jagged peaks. It is this wild remoteness coupled with the lack of any permanent inhabitants in this valley that gives the place its mythical qualities. The sides of the valley are lined with battalions of Larch, Scots pine, Arolla pine and Spruce, which when coupled with the great variety of flora and fauna explain why this area was one of the first natural reserves created in France in 1964.

The walk leaves the car park at the head of the valley near the old ruins of the former village of Haute-Rua, the village was destroyed by fire during the first world war and because of the shortage of able men around it was never rebuilt and was shortly abandoned.

The path climbs up the north side of the valley through the Scots and Arolla pines. Initially the path climbs at an easy pace but shortly you reach some deep gorges cutting across the path and then there are some sections, not of great difficulty, where cables have been attached to the rocks and a few metal steps have been added to easy the ascent. There is a fantastic lookout point on the side of the path during this first climb but it is only for the sure of foot. A little rocky outcrop accessed by a narrow ledge with huge drops on either side.

After exiting the forest the climb slackens off notably and the path starts to contour back towards Guillestre. On coming around a corner on the crete d’Agnes you are suddenly confronted by a number of the largest Larch you have ever seen. Torn and battered by the harsh environment these impressive trees stand among the charred ruins of their kin, destroyed by the frequent lightening that strikes this ridge.

From here the path descends to the cabanes de Cugulet where shepherds still spend the summer looking after their sheep in the high mountains. After a short climb, once again in the forest, you arrive at the summit of ‘Combe Chauve’ where there is a small metal cross, a large wooden one and a statue in the pink marble of Guilleste of the Virgin Mary looking out over the town of Guillestre and its environs. Stop a moment here to look at the views, to the north the Ecrins range can easily be seen with its jagged peaks and glaciers, to the south west the Lac Serre Poncon and the hills of Provence and to the east the Queyras is laid out before you.

The neighbouring summit of ‘Cugulet’ though slightly higher doesn’t offer anything else in terms of view and can be passed by a path on its southern flank. All that is left now is the airy crete de Cugulet leading up the final 300m to the Pic d’Escreins. Although the peak looks like a rocky tower there is actually a path all the way to the top and once there the views are spectacular.

There is enough rocky cover to protect you from any wind up on the summit and it is a fantastic place to have your picnic before the descent back to your car. You can descend directly to the west down the crete d’Agnes picking up the trail above the cabanes de Cugulet and then back the same way to the valley below. If you are in season stop at the refuge Basse Rua for a some welcome refreshment before returning to your car.

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